Installation Instructions for Manual Sliding Door
For walk-ins with the door opening already cut into the panels at the factory
All panels (including the transom above the door opening) need to be installed before installing the door. However, it is recommended that the wall panels not be fastened securely to the floor until the door installation is complete.
If the door was purchased without a wooden jamb
The “U” channel provided must be installed over the edge of the panel around the door opening. It should be snapped over the edge of the panel and riveted into place. One rivet every 16” is recommended. (Refer to illustration #1)
Installing the Door Frame
Place a bead of butyl caulking on both sides of the panels approximately 4 inches from the edge of the door opening. (Refer to illustration #1) Do this completely around the door opening. This will provide an airtight seal under the frame as it is installed. Position the “right-side” front frame (with bulb gasket attached) and a back side-frame along the right edge of the door opening. Holding the frames securely in place, drill a 3/8” hole through the frames and panel wall. A total of three holes evenly spaced on each side is generally recommended. Fasten both frames tightly to the edge of the wall panel with the carriage bolts provided. Repeat this procedure to install the left-side front and back frame. (Refer to illustrations #2 & #3)
To install the header (with the track already installed from the factory) and its back frame follows the same procedure as for the side frames. The carriage bolts should be located just below the track with one at each end of the header, one in the center, and then evenly spaced. 4 ft. apart.
Hanging the Door and Finishing Adjustments
Hang the door on the track and place it in the closed position.
Using the nut on the trolleys at the top of the door, adjust the door’s height so that the bottom gasket is just touching the ground. If the door is hung too low, it will be difficult to move and result in unusual wear on the bottom gasket. A rough floor surface will also increase the wear on the bottom gasket.
Push the door against the walk-in until it touches the bulb gasket evenly on both sides and the top. The bulb gasket is designed to accommodate for minor problems with the walls not being square. However, if the panel walls are not yet attached to the floor, they may be adjusted in or out to allow the door to sit squarely against the bulb gasket. If the walls are permanently attached to the floor, then the last recourse is to shim the wooden frame until the gasket can seal the door on all sides.
With the door still in the closed position, evenly sealed on all sides by the bulb gasket, position the doorstop on the floor so that the door will come to rest in this position each time it is closed. Secure the stop to the floor in that location with the sleeve anchors provided. (Refer to illustration #4)
Next, the guide roller should be installed. The roller should be centered against the metal angle found at the bottom of the door. The roller base should be tilted slightly, as indicated in illustration #3, and then secured to the floor with the sleeve anchors provided. The roller should apply just enough pressure against the door to ensure a proper seal when in the closed position. Depending on the size of the door, a second guide roller may be required. In this case, it would be installed against the bottom of the door at the other end. It should also apply just enough pressure against the door to maintain a good seal. This roller base will be positioned squarely to the bottom of the door and secured to the floor with the sleeve anchors provided. (Refer to illustration #4)
Finally, please open the door until it is flush with the door opening. Position the opening door stop on the floor so that the door will come against the stop each time it is in the fully opened position. Anchor the stop in that location with the sleeve anchors provided. (Refer to illustration #4)